Early start from Dortmund-Kirchhörde to Hagen.  Hagen had the feel of a semi ghost town although it is home to Germany’s largest university.  Very rundown old railway station with lots of unused platforms – reminders of more prosperous times in the coal industry. According to Wikipedia the city is broke and has been cutting costs to balance its budget.It was a fresh morning – sharp but pleasant.

3 hour train trip to Kaiserslautern via Köln and Mannheim.  The trip up from Mannheim was quite pleasant.  Reminiscent of the nearby Vosges mountains.

The Fritz-Walter Stadion in Kaiserslautern is only a short 10 minute walk from the Hauptbahnhof.  I had booked my match ticket the night before and it was a pleasant surprise that it was waiting for me behind the first ticket window I tried.  The stadium is perched impressively on top of the hill, Betzenberg in an almost unlikely position.  It is a place of special significance to Australian football fans – it is where Tim Cahill and John Aloisi scored Australia’s first World Cup finals goals in the historic victory over our great regional rivals, Japan in 2006.

My friends from Dortmund had told me that Kaiserslautern is one of the top 10 clubs in Germany for atmosphere and I was not disappointed.  This was a match-up between two of the Bundesliga’s past champions:  Eintracht Braunschweig (1967) and FC Kaiserslautern (2 times winners).  FCK are now locked in a battle to avoid relegation to the 3rd tier – this would be a disastrous outcome for a club with such a proud history.  Eintracht are enjoying a good season and are featuring in a very close tussle with 3 other clubs for the 2 automatic promotion spots.  At the end of today VFB Frankfurt, Eintracht and Union Berlin are all on 50 points with Hannover on 49 points.  Their goal differences cannot be split either – ranging between 13 and 15 for the four contenders.  I can see myself rejoining this contest before I leave Germany.

Both teams started the game with a back 3 – the formation du jour these days.  But early on it became clear that Eintracht were the more mobile team and they assumed control of the midfield from about the 10 minute mark.  As the half wore on the home team was clearly becoming reliant on infrequent counterattacks.  Most of the time they were just clearing the ball upfield and re-positioning themselves to weather another Eintracht raid.  But it was also clear that for all their constructive lead up play, and intelligent running off the ball that Eintracht were short of a front man, a real number 9 who knew how to put the ball in the goal.

So it was 0-0 at the break.  Meanwhile news came through from the other BL2 game that afternoon that Stuttgart were behind 1-3 at home to Dynamo Dresden.  Simultaneous football matches – something unknown to Australian football fans (of any code) since the moguls took control in the 80s.  News of exploits from other stadia add to the sense of anticipation and shared experience of the fans; we’re in a league and not just watching a game in isolation.

The second half was a different experience altogether.  Kaiserslautern were now running towards their home fans – the enormous high sweep of the Westtribüne.  Let’s not beat about the bush – they are a pretty crappy football team right now – playing with little confidence and not a whole lot more skill.  But then I experienced something quite new – led by their ultras working to the beat of 4 or 5 drummers they almost physically lifted their team into the contest through the sheer strength of their will. FCK mounted their attacks to roaring support, many through set pieces, but Eintracht defended well.

This was a game that both teams needed to win; Eintracht to stay in touch with the promotion pack and FCK to avoid being dragged into the mire of a relegation fight.  The game opened up and play swept from end to end as both teams tried to get the opening goal.  In the end it fell Eintracht’s way – almost predictably it was a scrappy melee with the ball being forced in at the near post from right on the goal line in the 79th minute.  FCK tried to respond but butchered their best chance when the substitute no. 9 wasted a free header in front of goal with only the keeper to beat.  And so it ended 0-1.

For now, Eintracht lie in 2nd position on the league table, level with Union Berlin with 8 games left to play in the season.  Their best chance of promotion will be to finish in the top two teams.  I cannot see them beating any of the relegation candidates in BL1 if they have to go through the two leg relegation play-off in May.  They simply will not be able to score.  The “Rote Teufel” will probably stay up but it will be their fans who will get them there – this is a team that needs a new coach and a complete rebuild.  Where is André Breitenreiter? Just the man for the task.

As I walked back down the hill to the railway station I heard some English being spoken and within a few minutes I was sitting in a pub with Ronaldo (no, not him!), Mishka and John.  They are working for the US Army at the local military base.   It was only 50 minutes until my train departed so it was very much a “speed date”.  But we had a great time over a couple of beers – lots of jokes and anecdotes.  I was not surprised to learn that Ronaldo does not think much of Messi.  And I did manage to elicit an apology for Donald Trump.  What is clear is that they are the fortunate recipients of a dream overseas posting.