Morlaix
The first thing I learned about Morlaix is its topography. The town centre is at the bottom of a deep valley which I had to navigate down and then up to reach my accommodation. The building of the Paris to Brest rail line in the 1850s resulted in the building of the grand viaduct which dominates the cityscape as it carves it way across the end of the old port.
The port itself has retreated by about 500m as it was covered in and remarkably replaced by a large car park in the 1960s.
Being so close to the English Channel, Morlaix and nearby towns were important centres for Resistance operations during WWII. Here and there you stumble across reminders, whether they be a street named after a Resistance member or the poignant memorial at Place des Otages where 60 locals were taken hostage by the Nazis at this loacation and deported to Buchenwald. The square itself dates from the 15th century and is notable for its maisons colombages, the half timbered houses surrounding it.
Another feature of my visit to Morlaix was my homestay at the house of Claudine. Apart from providing a very warm welcome and plenty of useful travel tips, Claudine’s breakfasts were a real treat. Each day she prepared something new for me to try: home made sarrasin bread, yoghurt with Breton caramel butter, crêpes with chocolate sauce and jam, crêpes dentelles, brioche, tiramisu (!) and on the final day a muffin (known in France as “cake”).